![]() |
The Pyramids, Sphinx, King Tut, and Akhenaten I woke up early again on Wednesday and had an excellent quiet time. I had trouble sleeping during the week, and this particular night was the worst. I'm sure that anticipation over the pyramids had much to do with it as well as the anxiety, fear, and apprehension I had been experiencing. I took special time to meditate on Psalm 45: Psalm 45 I met Ibrahim at an Egyptian subway station nearby and he was exactly how my cousin had described him. Ibrahim was very friendly and had an excellent personality. He had arranged for us to have a car for the day so we wouldn't need to worry about getting around. One of the first things Ibrahim did was to ask me in what order I wanted to see the sites. He suggested going to the Egyptian Museum first, which was the normal progression of tours. However, I felt the Pyramids was the BIG ENCHILLADA and I wanted badly to see the good stuff first. I was also concerned about the heat. My reasoning was simple, why fry? So, we headed off to the Pyramids and spent several hours there touring the Pyramids, the Solar Boat, and the Sphinx. They were incredible.
Journal Excerpt - "The Pyramids" |
|
Aproaching the Giza plateau |
Giant stones, giant camels |
|
The Great Pyramid |
climbing up the triangle |
|
a true rarity - a crystal clear day |
The Pyramid of Khafre |
|
poetic beauty and grace. . . |
poetic size and grandeur |
|
|
Famous Pyramids quotes: "We also mention the Pyramids. . . that idle and foolish exhibition of royal wealth. For the cause of most assigned for their construction is an intention on the part of those kings to exhaust their treasures, rather than leave them to successors or plotting rivals, or to keep the people from their idleness." - Pliny the Elder, circa 50 AD "Soldiers, 40 centuries of history look down upon you from these Pyramids" - Napoleon, readying his troops for battle at Giza, July 21, 1798 "The Pyramids were a quarter of a mile away, impressive by sheer bulk and reputation; it felt odd to be living at such close quarters with anything quite so famous - it was like having the Prince of Wales at the next table in a restaurant; one kept pretending not to notice, while all the time glancing furtively to see if they were still there." - Evelyn Waugh, 1929 "The Pyramids look as if they would wear out the air, boring holes in it all day long." - Florence Nightingale, 1840s "Back to the tent, skirting the base of the Pyramid at Khephren, which seems to me inordinately huge and completely sheer; it's like a cliff, like a thing of nature, a mountain - as though it had been created just as it is, and with something terrible about it as if it were going to crush you." - Gustave Flaubert, 1849 and my personal favorite, "Very big, very old." - camel owner, 1999 Ibrahim asked me if I wanted to go inside and said he would wait for me if I wanted to go in. I almost didn't go inside, because I had read that there wasn't much to see inside and it cost nearly 10 dollars to enter. However, I figured that I might as well pay the money if for no other reason than to be able to say that I had done it. So, I went in. It turned out to be the highlight of the day. At first, I was concerned since the passages were small and I am a bit claustrophobic. However, after the initial squeeze or two, I was infused with this incredible thought, "THIS IS AWESOME, I'M INDIANA JONES!!!!!!" Of course, what is written about the Great Pyramid is essentially true. There is almost nothing of value to see inside. Still, it's an incredibly neat experience. If you ever go to Cairo, make sure you don't miss the opportunity to go inside the Great Pyramid. After my experience inside the Great Pyramid, I was driven around its massive base and visited the incredible Solar Boat. The Solar Boat was the mythological vehicle, which would transport the Pharaoh/God to the heavens after his death. A complete ship was built and then dismantled and stored carefully outside the pyramid. The ancients believed that the Gods would resurrect the fallen king and help him rebuild the ship, which would transport him up to the sun where he would join with the other Gods on their daily races across the skies. The remarkable wooden boat was preserved in the hot, Egyptian sand and evokes a power and majesty suitable for such a function. The Pyramid of Khafre was closed when I was there, as the rotating schedule stipulates. The Pyramids are constantly being restored and are shut down continually such that only two pyramids at a time are ever open to the public. I was very impressed by this pyramid and its limestone cap evoked an incredible power that is lost in the Great Pyramid. Although the Pyramid of Khafre often appears larger than the "Great" Pyramid, it is important to note that it is not. The Great Pyramid is much larger. However, Khafre is built strategically on higher ground, which makes it appear larger to the eye from many perspectives. There is a panorama at the end of the Giza complex that attracts a lot of attention. It's an overlook of the entire area. From this vantage point, one can take excellent photos (when it's clear) and there are plenty of vendors willing to see trinkets and an occasional camel ride. Not wanting to miss out on such an experience, I sprung for a walk-around; a shaky decision at best. Not only did I nearly fall off and break my neck when the beast stood up, but I wondered if I would ever again feel clean and further worried that I had discovered the source of several Mid-eastern plague bacteria. With all of the said, it was a neat experience. Seldom does one get the opportunity to do such a thing as grand as ride a camel by the pyramids. |
||
ancient leggos |
My dollar bill has an eye on it |
|
seated like a king - Sheak Highrock? |
angry camels |
|
|
I had earlier gone in the smallest of the three pyramids and enjoyed once again, the "Indiana Jones" effect of hands-on archaeology. However, as art often imitates life, the sequel was no match for the original and it had little effect on me beyond reinforcement. The Sphinx was another matter. Not far from the base of Khafre and close to each of the pyramid complexes peacefully lies perhaps the most recognizable and certainly one of the largest faces on the planet. It took me by surprise when I first saw it. Cascading down a parallel access road, we were driving along, and suddenly . . .it was just there. Perhaps it was the contrast with the pyramids, which drew my amazement. Yet, it wouldn't seem something as large as the Sphinx could "hide" anywhere. I didn't see it and then it was there. My friend Ibrahim claimed kinship with this wily edifice. An ancient coat of arms of his family displays a representation of the Sphinx. Because of this fact, Ibrahim believes that either one of his early relatives helped build the Sphinx, or one of them was a model for the face of the Sphinx. Of course, we will never know. Personally, I find the traditional mystery to be more engaging. Riddle me this, what came from a far away land, experienced gastro-intestinal nausea from Egyptian drinking water, was sunburned in the Libyan desert, and fought off camel spate while avoiding Bin Laden groupies? The answer is clear if you think about it. So, why is the Sphinx the ultimate of creatures? That is no riddle. The Sphinx has the body of a lion and the head of a man. On the continent of Africa, there is no creature as strong as a lion. On the planet of earth, there is no being wiser than a man. Therefore, this combination of man and beast is more perfect than peanut butter and chocolate, cookies and cream, or raw fish and cooked rice. |
||
need some nose? I've got some extra! |
the intimidating glare of the man-beast |
|
the stare of centuries |
exploring the ancients |
|
|
The real mystery is what the Sphinx is doing there. Many have speculated that it is guarding something, while others have come up with their own ideas. Regardless of what the answer is, I felt privileged to see what was left of it. Standing in its presence, I certainly felt a special emotion. Not one of apprehension, and certainly not one of fear, but more so one of animation. The amazing Sphinx stood beside me gazing outward as it has for centuries and I returned the favor and marveled at its ongoing beauty and subsistence. From Giza, Ibrahim and I traveled to a nearby restaurant where I bought him lunch (that was part of the deal.) I enjoyed a traditional Islamic meal, which always starts with a variety of small appetizers, which consist mainly of small vegetables, meatballs, and sauces, which are usually dips for fresh, baked bread from a stone-hearth, open-air oven. The main course was a shish kabob barbeque chicken cooked over an open fire. However, the highlight of the meal was not the food, but the conversation. I really bonded with Ibrahim during the meal and we became great friends. I found that we were really not that different in many respects. We both had similar goals and desires. Ibrahim was a Christian, in an overwhelmingly Muslim nation. His parents both died of cancer when he was young, and he has been persecuted severely for his faith in God. Even today, he cannot get a job, because of his Christian faith. I also found that Ibrahim's life was miraculously spared by God. On November 17, 1997, he was scheduled to be one of the tour guides for a group touring in Luxor. The normal tour agenda includes trips to Luxor, Karnak, the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's temple, etc. Fortunately for Ibrahim, he ended up being diverted and did not take the tour that day. It was on that day, at the temple of Hatshepsut that a band of six Islamic extremists, possibly funded by Osama Bin Laden broke through the simplistic and insufficient security and gunned down everyone in sight. In a matter of minutes, sixty-eight people had been murdered and lay cut to pieces in pools of blood. The "Luxor Massacre" as it has come to be known claimed mostly Swiss tourists. The slayings included four couples on their honeymoon, a young mother and her baby, and a little Japanese girl who was so terrified that she stood wide-eyed in clear view with her arms stretched out to the side as the terrorists went on their rampage. When the terrorists got to her they shot her in the head at point blank range. The killings were perpetrated in the name of Islam and were part of a series of terrorist attacks to ravage Egypt in recent years. Luckily, Ibrahim was not among these victims as God spared his life on that day. Ibrahim was one of the warmest, funniest, and most sincerely joyful people that I met while in Egypt. We became great friends in a very short period of time. At one point, I asked Ibrahim what he wanted for his life. He listed many simple things. Oddly enough, they were all things that I already enjoyed and took for granted on a regular basis. Talking to Ibrahim, I determined that there was only one major goal that he said he wanted; that I too wanted. Ibrahim said, that he wanted to meet a wonderful woman and get married . . . and I too. The conversation was both humbling and well as enlightening. At 29 years of age (I being nearly 29) we had almost everything in common. In fact, in a way, I saw myself in another land. Our final stop of the day was the famous Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Here lies the greatest wealth of Egypt in a single locale. Scores and scores of figures, statues, mummies, utensils, masks, etc. from all over Egypt have been preserved and displayed in the museum. Ibrahim's tour was thorough and informative. Of all the rooms, I saw in the temple, by far the room that was to me most inspiring was the Amarna Room (Room #3). The Amarna Room contained the great treasures of the Amarna period, which was defined by the heretical king Akhenaten. Puzzled by the riddle of Akhenaten, I was fascinated by the riches contained throughout his area. The colossi of Akhenaten was by far the most obvious and dazzling art form, but I was more amazed and taken by the bust of Nefertiti. The craftsmanship of the image was exceptional, as I had read it would be. There was more pieces and history dedicated to Akhenaten in that one room than anywhere else I had ever been. My interest in him was spurred onward by this encounter. The other notable elements in the Cairo museum were that of the riches of King Tut. The son and successor to Akhenaten, Tutankhamun's treasures evoke both the power and majesty of ancient Egypt. I had not had much of an emotional attraction to Tut before, but it was hard not to become entranced when gazing into the eyes of the boy pharaoh (or as the more rustic dragomen bitterly tagged him; "the Lucky-Boy Pharaoh"). Tut's death mask had traveled the world with great fanfare and I found myself nearly alone with the mask in its dark chamber with all lights focused on its gold exterior. Standing before it, gazing intently through a thin glass barrier, one was a mere few inches from its face. The throbbing power emanating from its glare was pretty intense and inspired a certain awe that I will remember. The Egyptian Museum definitely has a flair for the dramatic. In the evening hours, I proved that there is some mainstay of capitalism left in the world as I was able to go out to dinner with Don and some of his friends to an Applebee's on the Nile. Although I craved a steak fajita, I stuck to chicken. . . it seemed to be the only safe food for me during my stay.
|
||
|
You may download my Egypt 2001 screensavers at Webshots Forward |
||
|
|
![]() ©2001 Highrock Internet Design |